





Deb went in over the underlayer of pale colors and darkened and shaped a bit more of the quilt and flowers, putting lots of pinks and reds (Quinacridone Rose and Alizarin Crimson - both Da Vinci fluid acrylics) in the blossoms and the leaves and stems.
When she stopped, I began on my next layers. As you can see, I was dying to get darker - and did, trying to let the colors blend and working with a very limited palette of Cerulean Blue, Ultramarine Blue, Quinacridone Gold, Hansa Yellow Light, Raw Sienna (all Da Vinci fluid acrylics). She reminded me to do the Nick Simmons technique on this to get more texture = wait until the shine is off the paper so you know the paint has begun to dry and then take a strong spray bottle and really spray across the color, lifting some of it back and created his "batik" look. I had waited too long for the right side because nothing lifted but I did get some lift on the upper left side.




Again, I'm just on the second DVD and am slowly working my way through the three DVDs in the set - and I do recommend them if you want to loosen up, see things a bit differently, etc. But you won't paint like Charles Reid at the end - who would want to? You want to paint like you, no matter who you study!



I watched more of the Charles Reid DVDs yesterday evening while Jerry was having a photography club meeting here. So now I have a "real" painting of 2 pieces of fruit and a bottle (all in varying shades of green because he says green is the color most artists dread/avoid). I've already done plenty of color studies so won't do that assignment, but will try the painting using a lime, an apple and a dark green bottle. He worked on sharing how he does contour drawing, too. Putting your pencil to the paper, you begin working inside the object (not creating a silhouette of the thing), cutting in and out, trying to keep the pencil connected to the paper at all times.
He talks a lot about having areas of connection = shadows connecting to shadows and to objects, overlapping objects, etc. And he talks about having areas of isolation = objects standing alone with a hard edge against a white background. Drawing the way he does gives you more practice in keeping the connection of paper and pencil (and later, paper and brush). If you've seen him draw, you know he isn't concerned about complete accuracy in form but more in lights and shadows and "connections" and "isolations" of objects in the painting.
Some words of wisdom from Charles Reid:
Watercolor is a work in progress. What you see when you put it down is not what you're going to get.
Work wet-in-wet immediately. Don't wait or you'll get "balloons." (Balloons = blossoms or backruns)
Sometimes you just have to Stay Your Hand. (I know. But how do you do this?? I put that in caps - why? Because if I could just learn this, I'd become a better painter.)
The more you mix on the palette, the worse it gets.
Watercolor is filled with happy and unhappy accidents.
Did you know that he uses two of the dreaded no-no pigments? Yep. He touches up whites with what he called opaque white (I assume he means gouache). And he uses Ivory Black!! Horror of horrors!!!
His favorite mix for grey = Yellow Ochre, Carmine, Cerulean Blue. He doesn't pay any attention to whether a pigment is transparent or opaque.
I'm enjoying watching this, bit by bit, and trying some of the assignments. I would recommend it so far. Still on the 2nd DVD and have more to go. I'll share my lime, apple and bottle painting when I do it.















wait for it....
Peep Show!
(Like this little Peep Show Wedding....)



